The Wine Advocate | RP 95
Published: Mar 7, 2022

Offering up complex aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, confit citrus, frangipane, walnuts, dried white flowers and subtle hints of iodine, Bollinger's 2014 Brut La Grande Année is medium to full-bodied, pillowy and vinous, with an elegantly fleshy core of fruit that's underpinned by racy acids and complemented by a pretty pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a long, chalky finish, this is a charming but precise Grande Année that's more giving and demonstrative than its immediate predecessor, the 2012, but which attains a very similar level of quality in a more challenging vintage—testimony to the serious viticulture that underpins Bollinger's contemporary excellence. 
Drink Date: 2021 - 2045

Winemaker

La Grande Annee is the ultimate expression of the Bollinger house style; rich and full - one of the world's great Champagnes. The Champagne House of Bollinger was established in 1829 and rose to prominence under the stewardship of the legendary Mme Lily Bollinger. Still family owned, this is a Champagne house of world renown. In the best vintages, they produce La Grande Annee, their Prestige Cuvee. 95% of the fruit is from Grand Cru sites, the remaining 5% from the finest Premier Crus; first fermentation is in 100% old oak barrels, followed by 6 years ageing on its lees with manual riddling prior to disgorgement. These are classic and complex Pinot Noir dominated Champagnes (70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay), powerful yet refined with the ability to age beautifully. Bollinger's Grande Annee style has become more precise and focused in recent years; this has been achieved with consummate skill as both the perfectionist philosophy and, not unrelated, the methodology of vinification, remain unchanged, the latter employing fermentation in old wood and then 72 months en tirage resting under natural cork on its yeast. Old-style Bollinger was indulgent, autumnal and entirely delicious; new-style Bollinger maintains as axiomatic at least two of these descriptors. The emphasis on freshness is evidenced from the lighter colour, the pinpoint bubbles and a memorable palate which recalls white chocolate, soft honey and yellow fruit. The 70 % Pinot Noir lends intimations of the savoury and playful red fruit rejoinders; the ensemble defers to a vintage which commands respect and, in such an approachable manifestation, affection . An exceptional piece of work.