Bouchard Pere & Fils Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru *Pre-Order ETA Early Dec 2024* 2008 750ml
*Available in OWC 1/6
The Wine Advocate | RP 91+
Published: Jun 29, 2010
Lightly-cooked black raspberry, smoke, and dusty crushed stone mark the nose of Bouchard’s 2008 Bonnes Mares, which generates a surprisingly soft and rounded not to mention rich palate impression for its high acid vintage and typically feisty appellation. Licorice, vanilla, and notes of game well-up in a long, soothing, black raspberry sherbet-dominated but relatively low-energy finish. Prost thinks Bonnes Mares is especially susceptible to and, in this instance, still suffering from bottle shock. I would not want to bet against this flourishing for at least 12-15 years, but suspect that its personality is temporarily damped and perhaps even a bit distorted.
Director-winemaker Philippe Prost made no attempt to minimize the challenges of 2008 and was careful to distinguish between its wind-borne concentration and genuinely ideal phenolic maturity (approached more nearly this year in white than red). He opined that the wide window afforded for relaxed picking despite the late calendar date was critical, since the levels of ripeness were so disparate from one site to another. That said, he showed me an outstanding collection of Pinots. Ironically, as he pointed out, ripeness was also disparate in one of the two earliest vintages on record, 2007, yet picking – while fitful – was anything but relaxed due to the pressure of rot. And here, too, Bouchard scored excellent successes. By means of, where necessary, “swapping lees” between barrels to inoculate stubborn lots, Prost says he was able to get all of his 2008s through malo-lactic conversion in timely fashion, which he considers especially important with Pinot. Bottling of the 2008 reds – with a few exceptions mentioned in my notes and due to have been bottled in April – took place in December and January, the same schedule adopted for their 2007s. I did not have an opportunity to taste nearly all of Bouchard’s vast collection from either vintage, and have in the text of my notes indicated a few from among their 2008s that I take to represent significant omissions. (I have not noted “Domaine” to distinguish those wines that are part of the Bouchard, except in cases where there is another otherwise eponymous wine.) Drink Date: 2010 - 2025
Jancisrobinson.com | JR 17.5
Published: Jan 13, 2010
Warm and seductive. Like deep red velvet. Rich on the palate, firm, already scented and plenty of oak spice on the finish. Delicious. (JH)
Bouchard-pereetfils.com
Could the prestige of this Grand Cru be due to the work of man or the protection of the gods? Some think that the names come from the verb " marer " which meant " cutlivate ", whilst others assert that the " appellation " originated in the bas-reliefs found on the site representing the mother goddesses, or "Bonnes Meres" who protected the harvest. In 1996, Bouchard Pere & Fils acquired 24 "ares" at Chambolle-Musigny and now produces a little over 1000 bottles of this wine per year.
TASTING NOTE: A remarkably refined bouquet of fruit and spices combined with hint of oak. Dense on the palate, this wine envelops its structure with superb flesh. Very good aging potential.
FOOD/WINE PAIRING: Poultry, game birds (pigeon, fowl, etc.), medium-flavored cheeses.
SERVING TEMPERATURE: Between 17C to 18C
AGEING POTENTIAL: 10 years and more
HARVEST: manual, in small cases of 13 kg. Careful manual sorting of each grape.
VINIFICATION: Following total or partial destemming on the vintage, fermentation in small containers, gentle pressing ensure optimal vinification. Depending on the profile of the vintage, vatting lasts 18 to 21 days.
MATURING: 12 to 14 months in French oak, with 45 to 60% new oak.
AGEING: The cellars located in the Bastions of the ancient Ch?teau de Beaune offer ideal ambient conditions. Thanks to their natural hygrometry and constant temperatures, the Grands Crus enjoy from their first youth an environment that is perfectly adapted to tranquil ageing.
GRAPE VARIETY: Pinot Noir
EXPOSITION: East
SOIL OF THE APPELATION: Gravelly soil with clay and limestone, iron traces
TOTAL SURFACE OF THE APPELATION IN PRODUCTION:15 hectares
DOMAIN SURFACE IN PRODUCTION: 0.24 hectares